By Larry Farquhar on Friday, 28 August 2026
Category: Travel

So Long, Ha Long (Vietnam)!

 Ha Long (Hạ Long), Vietnam is a coastal city in Quảng Ninh Province, best known as the gateway to Ha Long Bay, one of Vietnam's most famous natural attractions and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

August 20th - 26th, 2026

We were originally scheduled to spend three days in Chân Mây, but those plans changed when Typhoon Narra began approaching Vietnam. For safety reasons, our ship departed a day early and headed for safer waters. That meant spending the next day "rushing" toward Ha Long Bay, although at 12 knots, rushing is a relative term!

The good news was that we wouldn't lose any time overall. To make up for the missed day in Chân Mây, our stay in Ha Long was extended from the originally planned four days to five.

As we approached Ha Long Bay, we were treated to a cruise through one of the world's most spectacular natural landscapes. Thousands of limestone karsts and rocky islets rise dramatically from emerald-green waters, creating a breathtaking seascape unlike anywhere else on Earth. Every turn seemed to reveal another cluster of towering formations shrouded in mist.

Unfortunately, Typhoon Narra had other ideas for our welcome. The storm lingered offshore, drenching northern Vietnam with days of heavy rain. Low clouds and persistent showers muted the famous views, leaving much of the scenery hidden behind a gray curtain. Even so, the glimpses we caught of Ha Long Bay's dramatic beauty were enough to show why it is considered one of Vietnam's most iconic destinations.

Ha Long doesn't offer much to see or do beyond the famous scenic boat rides around its stunning bay, which heavy rain unfortunately ruled out. As the nearest port to Hanoi, about 100 miles away, many residents opted to head there for a few days. Connie and I will soon begin our 24-day Vietnam land tour here, which includes four days in Hanoi. We're hoping for better weather then, as we have an overnight Ha Long Bay cruise planned.

During our five-day stay, we ventured off the Odyssey a couple of times to check out the local Vincon Shopping Mall. It's the only mall in the area and fairly small, but getting there was easy with a GRAB car for just $4 USD each way. Dining options were limited, so we enjoyed a delicious pizza for lunch. The highlight of the outing was exploring the lively local market next door.

When I picture a traditional Asian local market, this is exactly what comes to mind. There was nothing modern about it, which only added to its authenticity. Despite the rain, we made our way down the street and were immediately greeted by the sight of several freshly slaughtered hogs in the back of a truck. Workers hoisted one onto a large bamboo pole and carried it into the market, where it was being butchered on tables and prepared for sale.

Inside a large, covered marketplace, hundreds of local vendors offered an incredible array of fresh and live seafood. Plastic tubs and small pools lined the aisles, each teeming with sea life. Lobsters, countless varieties of crabs and shellfish, squid, octopus, shrimp, and seemingly endless species of fish filled every corner. The market buzzed with energy and activity, creating a vibrant atmosphere that I found absolutely fascinating.

By the time the ship was ready to depart, the rain had finally stopped. Although the skies remained overcast, the improved visibility gave us much better views of the bay as we sailed away. With calmer weather than when we arrived, it was easier to appreciate the breathtaking beauty of Ha Long Bay and its dramatic limestone formations.

Once again, we're cruising across the South China Sea, this time on our way to Hong Kong. One interesting detail about the journey is that there's a section of the two-day voyage where photography is prohibited. While I imagine it would be difficult to enforce completely, it certainly sparks curiosity and leaves passengers wondering what's considered sensitive enough to keep off camera.

Near the end of our stay in Ha Long Bay, our peaceful life aboard the ship took an unexpected turn. At about 1:00 a.m., Connie suddenly woke up and screamed, jolting me awake. My first thought was that she had spotted a rat or some other unwelcome visitor. Unfortunately, the reality was much worse.

Our cabin was flooded.

More than three inches of water covered the floor, turning our room into a shallow pool. As I hastily got dressed, I briefly wondered whether we should be reaching for our life jackets.

Wading through the water, I opened our cabin door and found several crew members in the hallway using equipment to remove water. They immediately shouted for me to close the door so water from the hallway wouldn't enter our cabin. I quickly informed them that our cabin already had more water than the hallway did. As if to prove the point, water began pouring out of our room and into the corridor.

Fortunately, the cause was soon identified. A water pipe had burst in the ceiling near our cabin, flooding roughly a dozen cabins in the area. The crew repaired the pipe and worked tirelessly to remove the water. In the meantime, we were relocated to another, thankfully dry, cabin while repairs and cleanup continued.

To dry out the affected section, the crew removed furniture, curtains, and mattresses, vacuumed up the water, and set up fans to help dry the carpets. We were fortunate that most of our belongings escaped damage. Much of our extra gear was stored in suitcases under the bed, and thanks to their three-inch wheels, they stayed above the waterline. A few items were not so lucky, but compared to some of our neighbors, we got off lightly.

One neighbor lost a laptop that had been sitting on the floor, and many others had papers, clothing, and personal belongings spread throughout their room, trying to salvage and dry what they could.

We have now spent four nights in our temporary cabin and expect to remain here a while longer. Since we will soon be leaving for our Vietnam tour, we may not see our original cabin again until we return later in September. It certainly was not the kind of adventure we expected in Ha Long Bay, but it has become one of the most memorable stories from our journey.

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